Maison martin margiela who is

Following in the footsteps of Gaultier, Margiela's approach to design was unconventional, to say the least. While his mentor was set on highlighting the beautiful, hyper-sexual female form of his muses, Margiela took his mind in the complete opposite direction. The designer began his garments by destroying, not creating. Loose, exaggerated silhouettes aimed to shield a model's form from the world under distressed layers of fabrics. Unlike fashion's gatekeepers, androgynous wasn't just a word thrown around by Margiela, but an intentional part of his designs.

Seams, intentionally jagged and misshapen, were exposed along with boning structures and sewing to deconstruct the notion of what a traditional shirt or pair of slacks would be. Unorthodox materials like car seat belts, sports gloves , and blindfolds were all integrated into garments' silhouettes. The label's progressive and thought-provoking nature extended far beyond its wearable items. The sun was setting on the haughty, distinguished legacy houses with sterile and uninventive clothing. The new dawn had arrived, one orchestrated by Margiela himself.

Margiela's chaotically curated aesthetic, hell-bent on the rebirth of individuality and style for the '90s grunge kids coming-of-age in a nihilistic society, is what we now call anti-fashion. The movement towards abandoning traditional systems of structure and nepotism to be replaced with dark clothing woven with grim undertones sounds a lot more goth than it is. Sure, anti-fashion's biggest supporters were your typical societal outcasts—black trench coats and all— but bleak, destroyed garments don't mean much without the proper punk attitude.

At its core, Margiela's birth of the anti-fashion genre is one that feels anti-capitalistic. The movement is a large rejection of modern-day consumerism , aesthetics, and market trends in the industry.

It's a big middle finger to the multi-billion dollar corporations, rigorous production schedules, and high-end glossies that provide a strict rulebook to what is "in" and what's "out.

Who cares if a garment is too big? Or too messy? Or too cheap-looking? For the wearer, all that matters that it suits them. Anti-fashion isn't comprised of sweeping ballgowns or beautifully tailored three-piece suits, it's massive headpieces that resemble birdbaths and tops five sizes too big that bears a striking similarity to sculptural art.

From to , the designer established a look of chic, modern luxury, and femininity at the French legacy house— tame in comparison to his avant-garde beast at Maison Martin Margiela. The inspiration? To make women feel comfortable in their clothing, similar to how he made misfits feel like themselves at his other line. His work was that of a quiet genius, again transforming the way we view comfort and expression hand-in-hand with the pieces of fabric we chose to put on our backs.

Once more, no one was waiting for the press at the end of the catwalk before the lights go up. Bringing a mix of athleisure comfort and performance technology, it could just be the perfect partnership. Take a look at our countdown of the best designer sportswear collaborations at Coggles. By Ciara Martin. From the runway Coggles reports on all the details from clothing to accessories, location and mood of the MM6 Masion Margiela SS19 show By Olivia Seed.

By Alex Neilson-Clark. We cannot search for an empty value, please enter a search term. Photo credit: Vogue Runway. Buy Now. Vogue Runway. The very realistic printing created a trompel'oeil effect or optical illusion and suggested tailoring that the actual pieces did not have.

The models wore cotton voile during the show to cover their faces and hair. Hiding the physical features that make a person unique increases the desire for identity and uniqueness evoked by the clothing itself. The most noteworthy detail in Margiela's clothing was the nameless, somewhat oversized white label, identifiable on the outside of the garment by four white stitches attaching its corners.

The label itself carried neither brand identification nor size indication, and therefore seemed utterly extraneous. The conspicuousness of the white stitches increased the visibility of something that at first did not seem intended to attract attention. The phenomenon of merchandise branding was thus referenced in all its complexities and ambiguities.

Margiela's refusal to supply his designs with a brand name produced the opposite effect, a select in-crowd who recognized his "brand. No photographs of the designer were distributed. Communications concerning the collections consistently took place only through Maison Margiela. Interviews were allowed only by fax, and were always answered in the first person plural.

This created an ambiguous result as well. Margiela's refusal to appear in person resulted in the creation of a personality myth. Maison Margiela seemed to rebel against the rhythm of production that the economic system imposes on designers, not by radically rejecting the system but by filling it in with its own table of contents.

In the strictest sense, the house's collections and its various sideline activities are not bound to trends or seasons. Consequently, the tabi boot-a Japanese-inspired shoe in the form of a hoof-reappeared with each new season, albeit in slightly modified form. Moreover, not only were existing garments reworked into new creations, but also the "success items"-or favorite pieces from previous collections-were repeated.

This method led to the evolution of different lines, each of which was given a number that referred to differences in content, working method, and technique. All the lines except 1-the main line for women-bore labels printed with a line of numbers from 0 to 23 and the relevant number was circled. No busy prints were to be found, but rather a return to the article's essence, and the core of true luxury, that is, the stripping away of everything that is not essential.

Only the neck and shoulders of these garments were provided with a lining. Evans, Caroline. Gill, Alison. Street Editorial Office.